Cashmeran Longevity: The Velvety Woody Musk (6-12+ Hours)

"Why does Cashmeran last longer than most woody notes?"

If you've ever worn Thierry Mugler Alien, Frederic Malle Dans Tes Bras, or Escentric Molecules Molecule 05 and noticed a soft, velvety warmth that lasts all day—you're experiencing Cashmeran's exceptional longevity.

The short answer: Cashmeran lasts 6-12+ hours on skin (48-50 hours on test strips) due to extremely low vapor pressure (0.009316 mm Hg), molecular weight 206, and high lipophilicity (log P 4.20). It's a base note that binds strongly to skin and evaporates extraordinarily slowly.

What makes Cashmeran special: It was created in 1968 by John Hall at IFF—the same chemist who gave us Iso E Super. Fragrantica notes: "Cashmeran was synthesized for the first time in 1968 by John Hall of IFF. Yes, it is the same person who gave Iso E Super to mankind."

In this post, I'll explain why Cashmeran lasts 6-12+ hours (longer than linalool, similar to Ambroxan and Iso E Super), the science behind its "velvety cashmere" quality, how it performs in Indian climate, and why perfumers use it in everything from floral chypres to synthetic oud accords.

Quick Answer: Cashmeran Longevity Chart

Comparison to other woody musks:

Key takeaway: Cashmeran's vapor pressure of 0.009316 mm Hg is ~30,000x lower than linalool—explaining its exceptional base note longevity. It lasts all day while maintaining a soft, diffusive "cashmere-like" presence.

What Is Cashmeran?

Cashmeran is a synthetic woody-musky molecule with the chemical name 6,7-dihydro-1,1,2,3,3-pentamethyl-4(5H)-indanone (DPMI).

Chemical formula: C₁₄H₂₂O Molecular weight: 206.32 g/mol CAS Number: 33704-61-9 Also known as: Musk indanone, Indomuscone

Physical properties:

• Vapor pressure: 0.009316 mm Hg at 23°C (extremely low)
• Melting point: 27°C
• Boiling point: 256°C
• Physical state: White solid at room temperature, liquid when warm
• Log P (lipophilicity): 4.20 (very high)

Chemical classification:

Although sometimes called a "polycyclic musk," Wikipedia clarifies that Cashmeran is technically an alicyclic ketone: "Although Cashmeran has been described by some as a polycyclic musk, it does not belong to the polycyclic musk group as defined by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA), which defines polycyclic musks as having a molecular formula of C₁₇H₂₄O or C₁₈H₂₆O."

Odor profile:

IFF's official description: "Diffusive, spicy, animalic odor with strong floral reinforcement, with a powdery, velvet nuance and is long lasting."

Bon Parfumeur adds: "Cashmeran delivers an exceptionally complex diffusive aroma combining warm sensuous musk with rich woody-spicy character, featuring distinctive ambery depth, subtle floral-fruity nuances, and a characteristic soft powdery-velvet texture reminiscent of luxurious cashmere fabric."

Why "Cashmeran"?

The name evokes cashmere—the luxury wool fabric prized for softness and warmth. The Perfume Society describes it: "Cashmeran possesses an enveloping warmth and velvety softness that sometimes recall the feel of cashmere on the skin."

The Discovery Story: Same Chemist as Iso E Super

Timeline:

• 1968: John Hall at IFF synthesizes Cashmeran
• August 18, 1969: U.S. Patent No. 3,773,836 filed
• 1970s: Market introduction
• 1986: First major commercial use - Sport de Paco Rabanne
• 1987: Cacharel Lou Lou features Cashmeran

Serendipitous discovery:

Fragrantica reports: "The discovery emerged from Hall's research into cost-effective chemical transformations using pentamethylindane and tetramethylnaphthalene molecular structures. More specifically, the material was first developed after analysis of an impurity detected through gas chromatography during work on another fragrance compound."

Like many great fragrance molecules (including Iso E Super), Cashmeran was an accidental discovery—an "impurity" that turned out to smell exceptional.

The Iso E Super connection:

John Hall created both Cashmeran (1968) and Iso E Super (1973 discovery). Both are woody base notes with extraordinary longevity, but different characters:

• Iso E Super: 8-16+ hours, transparent woody-amber-cedar
• Cashmeran: 6-12+ hours, velvety woody-musky-spicy

Why Cashmeran Lasts 6-12+ Hours: The Science

Extremely Low Vapor Pressure

The primary factor: vapor pressure of 0.009316 mm Hg at 23°C.

For context, the volatility scale in perfumery:

• Top notes: >0.1 mm Hg (citrus, aldehydes) - evaporate in 30min-2 hours
• Middle notes: 0.001-0.1 mm Hg (florals) - evaporate in 2-6 hours
• Base notes: <0.001 mm Hg (woods, musks, resins) - last 8-24+ hours
• Cashmeran at 0.009316 mm Hg: Just above the base note threshold but still extremely low

The Good Scents Company database states: "Cashmeran displays a vapor pressure of 0.009316 mm Hg at 23°C, indicating ideal physical properties for sustained olfactory presence without excessive volatility."

Longevity data:

• Test strip: 50 hours (IFF), 48 hours (user reports)
• On skin: 6-12+ hours (reduced by body heat but still exceptional)

Basenotes perfumer community confirms: "Cashmeran lasts 48 hours on a test strip, but on the heat of your skin it will last less. In perfume compounds, it lasts 50 hours on a smelling strip."

Molecular Weight: 206 g/mol

MW 206 is heavy enough to resist evaporation:

• Linalool (MW 154): 2-4 hour longevity
• Cashmeran (MW 206): 6-12+ hour longevity - 34% heavier than linalool
• Iso E Super (MW 234): 8-16+ hour longevity
• Ambroxan (MW 236): 8-12+ hour longevity

Heavier molecules evaporate slower due to stronger intermolecular forces and lower kinetic energy at room temperature.

High Lipophilicity: Log P 4.20

Log P measures how lipophilic (oil-loving) vs. hydrophilic (water-loving) a molecule is. Cashmeran's log P of 4.20 means it's strongly lipophilic.

Recent research (Hadjiefstathiou et al., 2025) explains: "Less volatile and more lipophilic fragrance compounds are influenced by skin hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), with these lipophilic, low-volatility compounds appearing to be strongly influenced by the dynamics of water evaporation and the skin's state of hydration."

What this means for longevity:

1. Binds to skin oils - Cashmeran dissolves into sebum (natural skin oils) rather than evaporating immediately
2. Resists washing off - hydrophobic molecules don't wash away easily with water
3. Enhanced on moisturized skin - oily/moisturized skin provides more lipid base for Cashmeran to bind

Result: Extended wear time on skin, especially on well-moisturized areas like wrists and neck.

Structure-Activity Relationship

2024 MDPI study on synthetic musks found: "Hydrophobic/nonpolar and hydrogen bonding interactions contribute, respectively, 77% and 13% to the odorant binding affinities."

For Cashmeran:

• 77% of binding comes from hydrophobic interactions (why it sticks to skin oils)
• 13% from hydrogen bonding (ketone functional group)
• Ketone structure provides stability and resistance to oxidation

These molecular properties combine to create exceptional longevity while maintaining a diffusive, non-cloying presence.

The "Velvety" Quality Explained

Why do perfumers consistently describe Cashmeran as "velvety," "soft," "cashmere-like"?

Complex Scent Profile

Fragrantica's analysis: "The smell of cashmeran is complex and multifaceted, along with pronounced musk and woody nuances, it also incorporates a rich spicy component, a balmy vanilic aspect, reminiscent of old paper, as well as distinct coniferous and fruity notes."

Odor breakdown:

• Primary: Woody, musky, amber
• Secondary: Spicy, vanilla, balsamic, fruity, coniferous (pine)
• Tertiary: Old paper, red fruit, apple, earthy

This multi-dimensional character prevents Cashmeran from feeling one-note or harsh—it evolves softly over hours.

Perfumer Perspectives

Dominique Ropion (Thierry Mugler Alien creator) calls Cashmeran "voluptuous" and says it forms "an innate oddness" in Alien alongside jasmine (The Candy Perfume Boy).

Geza Schoen (Escentric Molecules creator): "Cashmeran is kind of a hybrid between a woody and a musky ingredient" (Cafleurebon).

Skin-Like Quality

Bon Parfumeur explains: "It combines the coziness of musk with the smoothness of wood, creating a velvety, skin-like quality that adds comfort and sophistication to a fragrance."

This "skin-like" quality means Cashmeran feels intimate and warm rather than loud or projecting. It creates an enveloping aura around the wearer.

Usage Levels in Professional Perfumery

Basenotes community data: "The average use is 0.33% in a perfume compound. The amount of cashmeran in perfume rarely exceeds 2% (it is not cheap). However, cashmeran is limited by the IFRA to 3.8% in the finished product."

Typical concentrations:

High-dose exceptions:

1. Dans Tes Bras (Frederic Malle, 2008): 25% Cashmeran - "One quarter of the fragrance Dans Tes Bras is composed of cashmeran"

2. Alien (Thierry Mugler, 2005): "Overdose" of Cashmeran alongside jasmine

3. Molecule 05 (Escentric Molecules, 2020): 100% pure Cashmeran - "Contains nothing but the molecule Cashmeran pure and singular"

4. Escentric 05: 15% Cashmeran blended with bergamot, laurel, rosemary, cistus, fig, juniper, Hedione

Why rarely exceeds 2%: Cost. Cashmeran is expensive, and excessive amounts can flatten top notes without proportional benefit.

Famous Perfumes Featuring Cashmeran

Historical Pioneers

Sport de Paco Rabanne (1986) - Among the first commercial perfumes with Cashmeran Cacharel Lou Lou (1987) - Early adopter establishing Cashmeran in feminine fragrances

Modern Classics

Thierry Mugler Alien (2005)

• Created by Dominique Ropion
• Overdose of Cashmeran creates "voluptuous" warmth
• Paired with jasmine and grey-amber accord

Frederic Malle Dans Tes Bras (2008)

• Created by Maurice Roucel
• 25% Cashmeran composition
• Showcases Cashmeran's velvety, enveloping character

Escentric Molecules Molecule 05 (2020)

• Created by Geza Schoen
• 100% pure Cashmeran - nothing else
• Demonstrates Cashmeran's complexity as standalone molecule

Cashmeran in Oud Perfumes

Fragrantica notes: "Almost no oud perfume without cashmeran, and as synthetic oud accord becomes more present, cashmeran usually makes a generous part of it."

Cashmeran provides:

• Woody depth
• Musky warmth
• Velvety texture
• Extended longevity

Perfect complement to synthetic oud bases like Firmenich's Oud Synth or Givaudan's Black Agar.

Comparison to Other Woody Musks

Cashmeran vs. Iso E Super

Iso E Super lasts longer due to lower vapor pressure, but Cashmeran has more complex, richer character.

Cashmeran vs. Ambroxan

Ambroxan has slight edge in longevity and unique heat-blooming effect, but Cashmeran offers warmer, more sensual character.

Why Cashmeran Is Unique

Fragrantica summarizes: "The multipurpose profile of cashmeran can't but surprise: it works in practically all perfume genres, it fits equally in manly woody compositions and elegant floral chypres."

Versatility:

• Woody masculines: adds warmth
• Floral chypres: provides musky base
• Oriental fragrances: enhances spicy facets
• Modern ambers: creates velvety texture
• Synthetic oud accords: adds depth and complexity

Temperature Impact: India Climate Performance

How does Cashmeran perform in hot weather?

Environmental research (Wang et al., 2024) found: "Higher concentrations of polycyclic musks were observed in warm seasons compared to cold seasons, suggesting higher emissions to the atmosphere, likely due to enhanced volatilization as wastewater temperature was higher in summer."

Translation: Heat increases evaporation rates for all molecules, including Cashmeran.

Still excellent in heat: Even at 35°C, Cashmeran's extremely low vapor pressure (0.009316 mm Hg) ensures it outlasts middle notes by 3-6 hours.

Comparison at 35°C:

• Linalool: 1.5-3 hours
• Geraniol: 2-4 hours
• Cashmeran: 5-10 hours
• Iso E Super: 6-12 hours
• Ambroxan: 6-10 hours (heat blooming helps)

Practical implication: Cashmeran-heavy fragrances (Alien, Dans Tes Bras, Molecule 05) perform exceptionally well in Indian climate—expect 5-10 hour longevity even in 35-40°C heat.

How to Maximize Cashmeran Longevity

Cashmeran already lasts 6-12+ hours, but you can extend it further:

1. Apply to Moisturized Skin

Research shows lipophilic molecules like Cashmeran (log P 4.20) bind better to oily, moisturized skin.

Technique:

• Apply unscented lotion first
• Wait 2-3 minutes for absorption
• Apply Cashmeran-rich fragrance on top

Result: Extended longevity + enhanced projection.

2. Layer with Complementary Notes

IFF recommends pairing Cashmeran with:

• Timbersilk (woody synergy)
• Citronellol (rose + musk harmony)
• Iso Eugenol (spicy-floral depth)
• Delta Damascone (fruity-rosy enhancement)

These combinations create synergistic bases lasting 12-16+ hours.

3. Apply to Pulse Points and Clothing

Best application areas:

• Wrists (classic)
• Inside elbows (cooler, lasts longer)
• Behind ears (warmth + longevity)
• Clothing (fabric retention extends to 24-48+ hours)

Clothing tip: Spray on scarves, shirt collars, jacket linings. Cashmeran's low volatility means it persists on fabric for days.

4. Choose Higher Concentration Formulas

• Eau de Toilette (5-15%): 5-8 hours
• Eau de Parfum (15-20%): 8-12+ hours
• Perfume/Extrait (20-30%+): 12-18+ hours

More Cashmeran molecules = longer perceived presence.

Key Takeaways

Cashmeran longevity:

• ✓ 6-12+ hours on skin at 25°C
• ✓ 5-10 hours at 35°C (Indian summer)
• ✓ 48-50 hours on test strips
• ✓ 24-48+ hours on fabric

Why it lasts:

• Vapor pressure: 0.009316 mm Hg (extremely low)
• Molecular weight: 206 g/mol (base note territory)
• Lipophilicity: Log P 4.20 (strong skin binding)
• Chemical stability: ketone structure resists degradation

The "velvety" quality:

• Complex multi-dimensional scent (woody, musky, spicy, fruity, vanilla, balsamic)
• Soft, diffusive character (fills space without being loud)
• Skin-like warmth (intimate and enveloping)
• "Innate oddness" that adds sophistication

Created by Iso E Super's inventor:

• John Hall at IFF (1968 synthesis, 1969 patent)
• Serendipitous discovery from impurity analysis
• Same chemist who created Iso E Super (1973)

Usage in perfumery:

• Average: 0.33% in compounds
• Typical: 0.5-2%
• IFRA limit: 3.8% maximum
• High-dose exceptions: Dans Tes Bras (25%), Molecule 05 (100%)

Famous perfumes:

• Thierry Mugler Alien
• Frederic Malle Dans Tes Bras
• Escentric Molecules Molecule 05
• Nearly all synthetic oud accords

Temperature resistant: Performs excellently even in hot climates (5-10 hours at 35°C vs. 1.5-3 hours for linalool).

Bottom line: Cashmeran is the velvety woody musk that lasts 6-12+ hours while creating soft, cashmere-like warmth. It's versatile across all fragrance families, exceptionally stable in heat, and irreplaceable in modern perfumery.

Further Reading

Want to understand longevity of other molecules?

• Perfume Molecule Longevity Chart: Complete MW Guide - Master reference hub
• Iso E Super Longevity: The Ghost Molecule - Created by the same chemist
• Ambroxan Longevity: The Synthetic That Blooms in Heat - Similar base note performance
• Galaxolide Longevity: Synthetic Musk Excellence - Long-lasting musk fixative
• Santalol Longevity: Natural Sandalwood Base - Natural woody alternative
• 11 Fascinating Fragrance Chemistry Facts - Surprising discoveries

Looking for perfumes formulated for Indian climate? Browse our collection →

About Syed Asif Sultan

Founder of House of Sultan. Passionate about fragrance chemistry and transparency in perfumery.