House of Sultan
Australian and Indian sandalwood comparison showing sustainable alternatives
Ingredients & Materials

How Sandalwood Source Changes Everything (Australian vs Indian)

Syed Asif Sultan•February 9, 2026•8 min read

Customer: "I want REAL sandalwood perfume. None of that Australian substitute."

Me: "Genuine Indian Mysore sandalwood?"

Customer: "Yes! Only the best."

Me: "That's heavily restricted. Most sources are either illegal, old limited stock, or actually Australian labeled as Indian."

Customer: "...What?"

Indian Mysore sandalwood (Santalum album) is endangered and heavily regulated. Here's what actually matters: sustainability, legality, and performance.

The Sandalwood Species Breakdown

"Sandalwood" isn't one tree. Multiple species exist, each with different characteristics and legal status.

Santalum album (Indian/Mysore sandalwood):

  • Origin: South India (Karnataka, Tamil Nadu)
  • Status: Vulnerable (conservation restrictions)
  • Legal status: Harvesting heavily regulated by Indian government
  • Smell: Creamy, rich, slightly sweet, woody
  • Key molecule: α-Santalol (high concentration in quality oil)
  • Problem: Limited legal supply, high price, sustainability concerns

Santalum spicatum (Australian sandalwood):

  • Origin: Western Australia
  • Status: Cultivated in plantations, sustainable supply
  • Legal status: Fully legal with proper plantation certification
  • Smell: Drier, more citrus-woody notes, less creamy than Indian
  • Key molecule: α-Santalol (lower concentration than Indian)
  • Benefit: Sustainable, legal, consistent supply

Santalum austrocaledonicum (Pacific/New Caledonian sandalwood):

  • Origin: New Caledonia, Vanuatu, South Pacific islands
  • Status: Varies by region, some areas overharvested
  • Smell: Similar to Australian, varies by origin
  • Note: Less common in mainstream perfumery

Amyris balsamifera (West Indian "sandalwood"):

  • Origin: Caribbean, South America
  • NOT TRUE SANDALWOOD (entirely different botanical family)
  • Smell: Woody, but completely different chemistry from real sandalwood
  • Contains different molecules (β-Eudesmol instead of α-Santalol)
  • Warning: Often fraudulently sold as "sandalwood oil"

Sources: Braun et al. (2005) - Chemistry and analysis of sandalwood oils and Howes et al. (2004) - Life of Santalum album

The Molecular Difference: α-Santalol

The signature sandalwood smell comes primarily from α-santalol (molecular weight: 220.35 g/mol).

Chemical reality:

  • α-Santalol creates the characteristic creamy-woody sandalwood scent
  • Higher α-santalol concentration = more "classic" sandalwood character
  • Lower α-santalol concentration = lighter, different woody character

Indian Santalum album oil: High α-santalol concentration (can exceed 50% in quality oil)

  • Result: Very rich, creamy, "classic" sandalwood smell

Australian Santalum spicatum oil: Lower α-santalol concentration (typically 20-30%)

  • Also contains other sesquiterpenes (farnesol, bergamotol, etc.)
  • Result: Woody with citrus/floral undertones, less creamy

Synthetic α-santalol: Can be produced at very high purity (95-99%)

  • Result: Creamy-woody but lacks natural complexity

Source: Jones et al. (2011) - Sandalwood Fragrance Biosynthesis

The difference is noticeable: Indian sandalwood's high α-santalol gives intense creaminess. Australian's lower α-santalol (plus other compounds) creates different character.

Why Indian Sandalwood Became Restricted

Historical context:

  • 1920s-1980s: Indian sandalwood heavily harvested for perfumes, incense, religious use
  • Mysore region (Karnataka) was world's primary source
  • Trees take 15-30 years to reach maturity with valuable heartwood
  • Harvested faster than natural regeneration rates

1990s-2000s: Population crisis

  • Wild sandalwood populations significantly declined
  • Indian government declared species under protection
  • Harvesting restricted to government-controlled operations
  • Export heavily regulated

Current situation:

  • Most "Indian sandalwood oil" in market is either:
    1. From controlled government auctions (limited supply)
    2. Old stock (finite, not replenishable)
    3. Fraudulently labeled (actually Australian or other species)
  • Illegal poaching still occurs (sandalwood smuggling continues)

Reality: Genuine, legally-sourced Indian Mysore sandalwood is extremely limited in commercial availability.

Our position: We prioritize sustainable, legally-sourced alternatives over restricted/problematic materials.

Australian Sandalwood: The Sustainable Solution

Western Australia has developed extensive sandalwood plantations.

How sustainable plantation sandalwood works:

  1. Plant Santalum spicatum (native Australian species)
  2. Proper plantation management (10-15 years to harvest)
  3. Sustainable harvesting (quotas, replanting, forest management)
  4. Steam distillation for oil extraction
  5. Legal certification (proper documentation, no endangered species issues)

Aroma profile (compared to Indian):

  • Creaminess: Less than Indian (lower α-santalol)
  • Woody depth: Good, but different character
  • Additional notes: More citrus/floral complexity
  • Overall: Different, not "worse" - depends on perfume context

Why this matters: Australian sandalwood is legally sustainable, but smells different from Indian. Perfumers must adjust formulations accordingly.

Source: Braun et al. (2005) - Chemistry and analysis of sandalwood oils

Blending Strategy: Natural + Synthetic

Pure Australian sandalwood: Sustainable but lower α-santalol concentration Pure synthetic α-santalol: High purity but lacks natural complexity

Common industry approach: Blend Australian sandalwood with synthetic α-santalol

Why this works:

  • Australian oil provides natural complexity (multiple sesquiterpenes)
  • Synthetic α-santalol boosts creamy character
  • Result: Sustainable sourcing + good sandalwood character
  • Cost: More affordable than pure Indian (if available)

This isn't "cheating": It's practical formulation using legal, sustainable materials to achieve desired aroma profile.

Our approach: We use Australian Santalum spicatum oil blended with synthetic α-santalol to create sandalwood character while maintaining sustainability and legality.

How to Identify Fake "Sandalwood"

Amyris (West Indian "sandalwood") fraud:

  • Problem: Amyris balsamifera is NOT sandalwood (different botanical family)
  • Chemical difference: Contains β-Eudesmol, NOT α-Santalol
  • Smell: Woody, but distinctly different from true sandalwood
  • Cost: Much cheaper than real sandalwood (~₹1,500-3,000/kg)
  • Usage: Often sold as "sandalwood" to unsuspecting buyers

How to tell:

  1. Price: If "sandalwood oil" is very cheap, it's likely Amyris or synthetic
  2. Smell: True sandalwood (any species) has characteristic creamy-woody scent
  3. Labeling: Check botanical name - should be Santalum species, not Amyris
  4. Transparency: Reputable suppliers specify exact species (album vs spicatum)

We don't use Amyris: We use genuine Santalum spicatum (Australian sandalwood), clearly labeled.

The Synthetic α-Santalol Option

Modern chemistry can synthesize α-santalol (MW 220.35 g/mol) identical to natural.

Synthetic α-santalol characteristics:

  • Chemically identical to natural α-santalol
  • Very high purity (95-99% vs varying percentages in natural oils)
  • Produced from sustainable precursors
  • Significantly less expensive than natural sandalwood oil

Smell characteristics:

  • Matches the creamy-woody sandalwood note
  • Lacks the minor compounds that add complexity in natural oils
  • Result: "Correct" but somewhat one-dimensional

Why blend rather than use pure synthetic: Natural sandalwood oils contain dozens of minor compounds that add depth. Combining natural Australian (for complexity) with synthetic α-santalol (for creaminess) achieves better overall character than either alone.

Why Transparency Matters

Most perfume brands don't specify sandalwood source:

  • Label just says "sandalwood" (which species?)
  • Don't disclose natural vs synthetic ratio
  • May use Amyris and call it "sandalwood"

What we disclose:

  • We use Australian Santalum spicatum (not restricted Indian)
  • Blended with synthetic α-santalol (for enhanced character)
  • No Amyris (not true sandalwood)
  • Sustainably sourced, properly certified

Why this matters: You deserve to know what you're actually getting, not vague "sandalwood" claims.

Indian Sandalwood Plantation Attempts

India has attempted to revive Mysore sandalwood through government plantations.

Challenges:

  1. Slow growth: 15-30 years to harvest-ready trees
  2. Hemiparasitic nature: Sandalwood is semi-parasitic, needs host plants
  3. Theft: High value leads to illegal harvesting from plantations
  4. Limited yield: Only heartwood contains valuable santalol

Current state:

  • Small amounts of plantation Indian sandalwood exist
  • Supply insufficient for global demand
  • Price remains very high
  • Availability inconsistent

Future outlook: May take decades before plantation Indian sandalwood becomes widely commercially available at accessible prices.

Until then: Sustainable alternatives (Australian plantation, Australian + synthetic blends) are the practical solution.

What This Means For You

Indian Mysore sandalwood is the historical "gold standard," but:

  • Supply: Extremely limited legally
  • Price: Prohibitively expensive
  • Sustainability: Problematic if not properly sourced
  • Availability: Mostly restricted

Practical options:

  1. Pay premium prices for limited legal Indian sandalwood (if available)
  2. Accept Australian sandalwood's different character (sustainable)
  3. Use blends (Australian + synthetic α-santalol)

Our choice: #3 - Sustainable Australian sandalwood enhanced with synthetic α-santalol for balanced character and performance.

Why:

  • Fully sustainable ✓
  • Fully legal ✓
  • Good sandalwood character ✓
  • Accessible pricing ✓
  • Transparent sourcing ✓

Chemistry and sustainability can coexist. Australian + synthetic blend delivers sandalwood character without endangering forests or breaking regulations.

How to Evaluate Sandalwood Claims

Questions to ask perfume brands:

  1. "Which sandalwood species do you use?"
  2. "Is it Indian album, Australian spicatum, or other?"
  3. "Do you blend natural and synthetic?"
  4. "Can you verify sustainable/legal sourcing?"

Red flags:

  • Won't specify species
  • Claims "Indian sandalwood" at low price
  • Vague about sourcing
  • Can't provide documentation

Green flags:

  • Clearly states species (Santalum album or spicatum)
  • Transparent about natural/synthetic blends
  • Can document sustainable sourcing
  • Realistic pricing

We answer all these questions: Australian Santalum spicatum + synthetic α-santalol, sustainably sourced, fully documented.

References

This article uses verified information from:

Sandalwood Chemistry:

Sustainability & Conservation:

This isn't marketing spin. This is documented botany, chemistry, and conservation science.

Understand our formulation approach →

See our sourcing transparency →

Shop sustainably-sourced perfumes →

References

  1. Jones, C.G., et al. (2011). 'Sandalwood Fragrance Biosynthesis Involves Sesquiterpene Synthase.' The Plant Cell, 23(12), 4472-4486.
  2. Braun, N.A., et al. (2005). 'Chemistry and analysis of sandalwood oils.' Flavour and Fragrance Journal, 20(1), 3-12.
  3. Howes, M.J.R., et al. (2004). 'An account of the life of Santalum album (East Indian sandalwood).' Journal of Ethnopharmacology, 93(2-3), 231-236.
Syed Asif Sultan

About Syed Asif Sultan

Founder of House of Sultan. Passionate about bringing premium, climate-optimized fragrances to India at honest prices.